Rear Seat Fiberglass and Front Seat Box Doublers

Today, I fiberglassed the rear seat vertical on the front side and applied a second epoxy layer after waiting about 5 hours. I also cut to size and epoxied on the doublers on the front seat boxes where I will cut the access hole.

4 hours

Rear Seat Started

Tonight, I cut out the vertical part of the rear seat, and cut 1 1/2" vent holes in it as well as angled the sides to match the sides of the boat and the area around the quarter rounds.

I also took out the screws on the seat boxes so they would not set and be impossible to get out later when the epoxy fully cures.

Today 8 hours

Front Seat Boxes Epoxied Together

Today, the front seat boxes were epoxied together after sanding all the edges smooth. I also marked on the front of the seat boxes where I am going to cut a hole to allow access to this area after it is put on. The hole is 6" x 12". I may move it inboard a little bit to allow for the pilot house sides. I will also double up this front piece with another 1/2" piece of plywood to strengthen it.

Stem Quarter Rounds and Seat Box

The last couple of days I cut to length and epoxied on the quarter rounds to each side of the stem where the sides will attach.

I also began building the seat boxes. I haven't decided the best way to finish them as I would like for the area to be accessible for storage. I may cut a hole in the front and double up the plywood there for strength.

Fence Installed On Bottom

Today and tonight I installed the fence. I first cut it to size and to match the quarter round pieces on each side, and I rounded over the top with my router. Then it was epoxied to the bottom.

After it cured enough, I put fiberglass over the entire piece and also put 3" fiberglass tape on each side, fore and aft.

4 hours

Quarter Rounds Epoxied To The Bottom

Yesterday, I epoxied and nailed the quarter rounds for the sides down to the bottom of the boat. They didn't want to go down straight, but they are pretty close and can be sanded to match the sides exactly.

1.5 hours

Quarter Rounds For The Sides; Transom Trimmed

Yesterday, I made the quarter round pieces (4 in all) that will attach to the bottom and the sides. They were cut to length, cut with a band saw every 1 inch or so to allow them to bend easier, drilled with a #54 drill bit approximately every four inches, and the appropriate length nail was put in each hole. Next they will be epoxied down to the bottom.

I also trimmed the transom sides to match up with the sides of the boat when they are installed, and sanded and smoothed down the transom to bottom joints fore and aft.

5 hours

Made a Small Parts Paint Booth Today!

Today I decided to make a small parts paint booth that will have a squirrel cage fan and vent to the outside of my garage through a dryer type vent.

It took me three hours to get to the stage in the photos. I still have to buy a blower (squirrel cage fan) and make some type of fiberglass vent system that will hook to the back of the paint booth, go through the fan and into the dryer vent.

Taped The Transom

Today, I nailed down the quarter round strip on the forward side of the transom to the planing doubler after applying non-filled epoxy and then a epoxy/wood flour mix. I then filleted the part to mess nicely with the transom and bottom of the boat. I also used the epoxy/wood flour mix to fillet the aft side. Then I fiberglassed taped the transom with 4" tape on the forward and aft sides and filled with epoxy. I have also waited about two hours and applied another layer of epoxy to fill the weave. One or two more layers of epoxy should take care of that.

4.5 hours

Did You Miss Me? Lots of Work Done!

Well, it has been a very long time since the last post, but I actually have been getting things done! Not as much as I would have like to, but I am also completing the RV-9A airplane for my buddy Pat! Huge job there! Finally got it completely wired up and ready for paint! Close anyway.

The front part of the planing doublers were added, and I have rounded off the corners on the top side and bottom side of the area of the planing doublers and fiberglassed the planing doublers on the top side. There was also fiberglass installed in between the layers, which was actually part of the top side of the bottom of the boat. I am also going to install another layer of fiberglass tape around the entire sides of the planing doublers to add strength and water resistance. They will be the parts to contact the dock or whatever while in the lake, so they need to be reinforced as much as possible.

I have also angled the bottom of the transom exactly 12 degrees with an electric planer and a hand planer to allow it to angle 12 degrees aft when installed, fiberglassed the transom on both sides, and finally installed the transom on the planing doubler yesterday. I used blocks screwed to the planing surface on the forward and aft sides of the transom to hold it exactly in place, and they had the added benefit to hold it up as well, which I did not expect. I was going to build a jig to hold the top side, but didn't need to. BUT, I did have to stand there for almost three hours yesterday pushing down on the transom after the epoxy was applied, because I could see it not mating properly if I let it go. That was REAL fun, let me tell ya! At least I could watch the TV while I held it in place. I need to put fiberglass tape and epoxy on the bottom now to secure it totally in place. I don't think it will break free, but I definitely want to make sure it doesn't happen. I will also install the quarter round pieces next. The transom is not to the final shape it will be, as I will install the sides first AND decide on a long shaft or short shaft motor to put on it, which will determine it final shape.

All together approximately 20 hours, including all the sanding, etc.

Keel Taped to Bottom

Today I sanded down all of the areas where the keel meets the bottom and then fiberglass taped them with epoxy. I first filleted the corner areas with epoxy/wood flour mixture and rounded it out nicely.

I also added a layer of epoxy to the bottom in the areas that will not be taped to the sides. I left them sanded down, because there will be a little ledge of epoxy next to it when they are taped.

3 hours

Planing Doublers Epoxied To Bottom

Today, I epoxied the planing doublers to the bottom and clamped it down as well as adding weights on the areas I couldn't clamp. You never can have enough clamps!This doubler will make the back portion of the bottom 1". I also clamped a straight piece of 2x6 on the back of the planing surfaces to hopefully get them straight in-line with each other once they have cured.

I also semi-installed the U-bolt on the stem. I have to drill 1/2" holes for it to go through, and I started to installed it then take it back out, but it was getting damaged trying to get it back out. So, I will just add some epoxy to the threads later and push it all the way in and tighten the bolts. After I received this U-bolt, I thought it was way too big and I probably should have got the 3/8" version, but I couldn't find one long enough to go all the way through the stem. Oh well, it is installed now! Maybe I should have looked harder!

4 hours

Lots of Stuff!

Today and yesterday, I sanded down the entire top side of the bottom, making it nice and smooth, especially where the fiberglass overlapped.

I also trial fit the transom to the bottom and marked its location and where it will need to be cut to match the sides. I then marked out where the planing doublers will be on the bottom. Taking those measurements, I marked out the planing doublers on 1/2" plywood and cut them out.

I also smoothed out all of the epoxy/wood flour filled holes on the transom.

6 hours (1 hour last night and 5 today)