Keel Taped to Bottom

Today I sanded down all of the areas where the keel meets the bottom and then fiberglass taped them with epoxy. I first filleted the corner areas with epoxy/wood flour mixture and rounded it out nicely.

I also added a layer of epoxy to the bottom in the areas that will not be taped to the sides. I left them sanded down, because there will be a little ledge of epoxy next to it when they are taped.

3 hours

Planing Doublers Epoxied To Bottom

Today, I epoxied the planing doublers to the bottom and clamped it down as well as adding weights on the areas I couldn't clamp. You never can have enough clamps!This doubler will make the back portion of the bottom 1". I also clamped a straight piece of 2x6 on the back of the planing surfaces to hopefully get them straight in-line with each other once they have cured.

I also semi-installed the U-bolt on the stem. I have to drill 1/2" holes for it to go through, and I started to installed it then take it back out, but it was getting damaged trying to get it back out. So, I will just add some epoxy to the threads later and push it all the way in and tighten the bolts. After I received this U-bolt, I thought it was way too big and I probably should have got the 3/8" version, but I couldn't find one long enough to go all the way through the stem. Oh well, it is installed now! Maybe I should have looked harder!

4 hours

Lots of Stuff!

Today and yesterday, I sanded down the entire top side of the bottom, making it nice and smooth, especially where the fiberglass overlapped.

I also trial fit the transom to the bottom and marked its location and where it will need to be cut to match the sides. I then marked out where the planing doublers will be on the bottom. Taking those measurements, I marked out the planing doublers on 1/2" plywood and cut them out.

I also smoothed out all of the epoxy/wood flour filled holes on the transom.

6 hours (1 hour last night and 5 today)

Seat Design Chosen

I have chose this design for my seats in the white/red/charcoal colors. Should be comfy!!

Top of Bottom Now Fiberglassed

Tonight, I filled the holes for the fasteners that went through the bottom to the keel. Then, I added a layer of fiberglass to the top of the bottom. I also put an extra layer of epoxy on top after the initial layer.

3 hours

Bottom Attached to Keel

The bottom was epoxied to the keel with the first layer of un-thickened epoxy and then a layer of epoxy/wood flour on the entire surface of the keel that attached to the bottom. I used wood screws and washers to tighten everything down. A little weight was used in a couple of areas to help it contour to the keel better.

After this dries, I will be filling all of the holes with a epoxy/wood flour mixture and then fiberglass the entire top side of the bottom. Then I can install the seats, fence, etc.

2 hours

Keel Taped

I decided to tape the keel on the inside corners for extra strength before attaching the bottom. This was the last chance to strengthen anything in the keel, as it will be completely closed off after attaching the bottom. I sanded down the epoxy in the corner areas so the new epoxy and fiberglass tape would adhere good.

I also put a layer of epoxy on all surfaces that will attach to the bottom to seal them.

3.5 hours

Trial Fit the Bottom to the Keel

The bottom was fit to the keel and marked for the fasteners that will go through the bottom into the keel stiffeners. The bottom was then taken off, marked, and drilled. Then, the bottom was put back into place on the keel and the fasteners were installed to hold the bottom down tight for the epoxy/wood filler that will be next.

The sides of the keel were sanded enough to take the layer of tape that will be applied once the bottom is epoxied to the keel. I also made sure that the keel stiffeners are level so the bottom will sit up tight against as much of it as possible.

4.25 hours

Bottom Sanded Smooth

Early this morning (about 5:00 AM), I put on two more layers of epoxy to fill the fiberglass weave. This had time to cure while I was at work today with the extremely hot temperatures Wichita has been experiencing.

Tonight, I cut the edges of the fiberglass off and sanded the sides smooth. I also sanded down the entire fiberglassed area with 40 grit sandpaper disc on my electric 5" disc sander. You can tell it has been sanded enough with there is no shine left on the epoxy (cloudy appearance), as well as taking down any rough spots. You can also see where the two pieces of fiberglass came together, which is now sanded down to be as smooth as possible. I believe some of that area will be under the keel when finished. By the time it is complete there will be a few more layers of epoxy on all surfaces.

Next will be to attach this bottom to the keel.

3 hours

Bottom Fiberglassed

Tonight, I put on a layer of fiberglass and epoxy on the entire bottom of the boat. I will need to get up about 2:30 in the morning to add another layer of epoxy, and then another about 6:30 AM. As you can see in the first photo, there are two pieces of 6 oz plain weave fiberglass used. I wanted to use a 60" wide piece, but forgot to order it when I ordered the rest of the fiberglass. I looked here in town at lunch today, but nobody had 60" available. Not many companies in Wichita carry fiberglass cloth I have found out.

3 1/2 hours.

Bottom Scarfs Faired Second Time

Yesterday, I put on another layer of epoxy/wood flour/colloidal silica mixture to the scarfs and let that cure. Today, I sanded them down smooth, ready for fiberglassing the bottom.

I also cut out the back bottom of the boat to shape.

I was going to fiberglass the bottom tonight, but once I get started, it will take about three hours to get it down right and full of epoxy. It will take at least three, and maybe four, layers of epoxy to get it sealed good. I hope to do that tomorrow.

I also looked at the transom, getting ready to shape it before matching it up with the bottom, and found it really warped. I may have to build another one, as this will be really noticable if I installed it this way. I am not sure why this happened, as it was not warped when I removed it from the jig after it cured.

2 hours

Bottom of the Bottom Now Faired

Today, I turned over the bottom to work on the bottom side, fairing it with the epoxy/colloidal silica/wood flour mixture. It is now curing. It will probably take another layer to make it where I want it. I will then make sure it is nice and smooth and fiberglass it.

There were also several checks in the plywood that were filled in with the mixture.

2 hours

Bottom of Boat Cut Out and Scarfed Areas Faired

Today, I cut out the bottom to the rough shape on the side and the front. I didn't cut out the stern area of the boat yet, because I have to figure out the best way to install the doublers that will go on the planing surfaces.

If you look close at the second photo, you can see the two scarfed areas that were glued together. It almost looks like one piece until you look closer.

I also faired the top side of the bottom scarfed areas with a mixture of epoxy and colloidal silica. This is supposed to be the easy stuff to sand once it cures. I will find out tomorrow.

2 hours

Boat Colors Have Been Decided!!

I have decided what colors the boat will be! My first choice has been changed to the colors of the boat above. I am also contemplating adding the coast guard colors to it, similar to the other photo of the model above. I really want to find out how to make those jute covered bumpers too!!

I may have found an engine for Lil Bump, but I don't have the money to buy it yet. One of these days! It is a Mercury 35 HP with the controls that I will need. It also comes with a boat and trailer, but that is the only way to buy it cheap. I will probably fix up the trailer to work for this boat, and sell the other boat. I would actually give it to someone and it is a pretty nice boat.